Wales Trip

So for the last few weeks I have been training for a climbing trip with my school. Originally we were going to go up to the peaks for a few days climbing there. Then it was changed to climbing in the Portland and Swanage area; then it was changed to going to Wales which was brilliant as I have only been there climbing for a few hours previously.

We arrived at Llangattock in the afternoon and got straight in. I didn't much fancy top-roping some of the 4's and 5's that were set up and instead I did some traversing. I quickly did one which I think was around V4 or V5 although I'm not too sure. Then, at the far left hand end of the crag I found an awesome looking boulder! It was a really interesting style on slopers and crimps, nearly all sidepulls as well which led to some odd movements. I spent about an hour, maybe a bit more, trying to do it. I worked out all the moves fairly quickly and there was only one I couldn't do. It was then that we had to leave for the day; this was uber frustrating!! I was so close!! I reckon I only needed a few more goes before I sent it but we had to go. This might have been for the better though as now I have a project for next time I come back. Also, the boulder was situated in a slightly damp hollow and the midges were shit!

The next day we went to Llangorse climbing centre which was interesting. It was a centre more designed for the activity side of things rather than the climbing. This meant a lot of easy routes and most were fairly poorly graded which wasn't too good. However there was some half-decent bouldering in a couple of caves and the sheer amount of climbing there was awesome though!!

On the Wednesday we had to go back. However, before we did, we managed to fit in several hours at the classic limestone crag Symonds Yat. I've been there once before although it was raining then and we barely did anything. I started on a decent looking route which involved climbing a technical (and very slimy!!) slab up to an overhang, however over the overhang, there were no decent holds to be able to get round so I moved on feeling a bit annoyed. I then did a couple of decent looking corner climbs, one very reachy and another pretty bare and technical. After this we then had to go as we couldn't get back too late in the evening.

In all it was a sick trip with some decent climbing! It was also just fun to explore some new places and gave me a decent experience of some of the Welsh limestone.

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Beach Highballing

With all the crap weather in the past few weeks I have barely been able to get outside! So frustrating having to stay on plastic, but have been able to get in some decent sessions at the Arch and Biscuit Factory.  Anyway, the other weekend we were down in Cornwall for one of the first decent weekends of the summer. It was so nice to be able to actually have hot weather for once!

One of the beaches we went to is called Hemmick beach. I've been there a couple of times before and have noticed a rocky outcrop up above the cliff and it has some decent rock! Most of the rock in that area of Cornwall is shale and totally unclimbable and so is sick to have rock that doesn't all flake off. I brought my shoes and chalk to the beach and took a small trip up there for some highballing. It was up to a maximum height of around 8 metres so wasn't too bad not having a mat.

I think that most of these were FA's too which is pretty sick. There's just one route there which I want to do next time; this follows a steadily overhanging face at around 45 degrees. Because of the overhang it is by far the longest route there, probably at around 10 metres in length and looks fairly technical.

Also, in the harbour in the village where we were staying, I noticed a small DWS which was a technical traverse over the lip of a cave. It was only really suitable at high tide but nevertheless I gave it a go. Thankfully I didn't fall in as the sea is pretty nippy! I didn't quite finish it though, so will give it another go next time we are down.

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